|Length||Width||Clear grade||Tight Knot grade|
Prices include GST
All timber is supplied slightly over length for final trimming by the builder during the construction process.
All hardware (screws, bolts, washers, and CD-50 oil) is included in the kitset.
This table can be built by just about anyone using the minimal of tools, and its robust construction will gives years of reliable service.
The slatted top means it will not be susceptible to cupping - the small gaps between slats will enable water to drain immediately.
The table frame can also be used to support a natural edge slab as the table top. The strong sub-frame will give the necessary strength to keep a single piece slab flat and prevent warping, even if kept in direct sunlight.
Below is the cut list giving all the provided pieces for construction.
|Dimensions (mm)||Length (mm)||Quantity|
* 6 seater: 1200mm, 8 seater: 1800mm, 10 seater: 2400mm
** the 10 seater comes with an additional cross member
All the timber we will be using is dry and it is square dressed. You have option of using knotted grade, which will give a bit of character and will be cheaper, or using clears for a more upmarket look.
You will also be provided with:
|M10x150 galvanised coachscrews||6|
|M10x100 galvanised coachbolts||6|
|M10 galvanised washers||12|
|75x14g galvanised bugle screws||4*|
|125x14g galvanised bugle screws||24*|
|100x14g galvanised bugle screws||40|
|CD-50 Xtreme oil||1 litre|
* The 10 seater comes with an additional two 7x14g screws and additional ten 125x14g screws for the third cross member
You will also require suitable wood glue, and an electric drill and 150mm long 6mm drill bit, which are not provided in the kitset.
Watch our YouTube video showing the construction process:
1) The first thing we need to do is take the sharp edges off the timber. Sharp edges can be a source of splinters in the long term. This can done simply using coarse sand paper, or an electric planer held at 45 degrees, or a router with a pencil rounding bit.
2) First we will start with the table top slats:
The slats will be six long pieces of dressed 150x50, which when machined actually measure 140x45. This will ultimately give a table width of 930mm which is quite adequate for an outdoor table. Lay them out on the ground - best side up - and arrange the boards so any gaps caused by slight curves are minimised. Make sure you keep them in this order for the entire process.
Flip the boards over and make two marks. The distance between these marks is determined by the size of your table:
- 6 seater: 1200mm apart
- 8 seater: 1800mm apart
- 10 seater: 2400mm apart
3) Now we are ready to cut the two cross members.The two cross members are 90x45 and they will be cut to 840mm long and have 45 degree cuts as shown. These are positioned 280mm in from the two cut lines you made in step 2.
- The 10-seater 2400mm long table requires a third cross member in the center for stability. Position this 1200mm in from an end cut line.
4) Next we construct the legs.The uprights are two pieces of 290x45 cut to 610mm long. This will mean the table height will be the standard 740mm from the floor to the top surface.
The leg bases are 65x45 and they will be cut to 930mm long and have a tapered cut as shown.On the underside of these we drill three 20mm deep/32mm diameter countersink holes – one in the centre and the other two 110mm either side. We then drill a 12mm hole right through each of these. Using M10x150 galvanised coach screws, screw and glue the leg bases to the uprights. To avoid splitting, drill a 6mm pilot hole into the end grain of the upright.
5) On the underside of the leg bases screw and glue the four packers. These raise the table leg base off the ground to create ventilation, and prevent rocking that may occur with the large surface area of the leg base on its own.6) Now fix the leg assembly to the table top using M10x100 coachbolts.
To add extra stability add two short 90x45 diagonal braces. The screws are 100mm long 14 gauge batten screws. Drill a 6mm pilot hole right through the first piece.7) Now stand the table up and cut the table to length with a circular saw guided by a straight edge.
8) The final step is a skirt around the edge using 65x45.This will give the table a heavier look and will protect the end grain of the slats from cracking. Use 100mm long 14 gauge batten screws, drilling a 6mm pilot hole right through the first piece.
Finishing) To finish your table, seal the timber with CD-50 outdoor furniture oil to protect it from the elements.
Photos of the constructed table